Grand Canyon: Seven Days, Six Nights

This is the story of a trip of a lifetime! I was apprehensive: could I actually backpack the Grand Canyon rim to rim, a distance of over 20 miles and elevation changes of 5,000 ft.? I wasn’t sure but the group I ended up going with Aug 28-Sept 5 seemed like my speed, taking it slow with a day of rest after every big descent or ascent. We ended up hiking about 6-7 hours a day and I made it; it was so worth it. For photos and details day by day, read on:

Grand Canyon: Day 1 Sat Aug 28

Although we did make it to the South Rim on the first day, Sat Aug 28, it was at night and so too dark to see the Grand Canyon! Flying into Las Vegas, we did stop off at Hoover Dam, shown here, on the way. Can you tell how windy it was? 35-40 mph winds all day Sat-Mon, which ended up being a blessing as it cooled us off a little bit while hiking but more about this later.

Here we are at the Vegas airport. In this photo with me are Michelle from Chicago and Kristen from Alaska, our trip planner and leader. I didn’t know most of the people we traveled with; they used to be neighbors of Laura’s, a friend from my golf league. Don’t have any photos from the airplane but we got great views of the Canyon on the flight, as well as of Lake Mead. We were lucky: people from Alaska, Florida, Chicago, and Cincinnati all had smooth flights and met on time, as planned at the Las Vegas airport, where we picked up a rental van to drive to the Grand Canyon.

Six women in a van with backpacks loaded up for 7 days: it was a challenge packing this minivan and getting us all in, as you can see from this photo. For Patti, in the middle seat, this was her first camping trip ever! You would never have thought so: what a trooper and a good sport she was! In fact, everyone on this trip had great attitudes, were tolerant and kind, and there was very little tension, even in tight quarters, when we were tired or when things got tough. I was very fortunate to travel with this group.

It was about a 5 hour drive from Vegas to the Grand Canyon and my friend Laura drove most of the way. With the time change, we didn’t realize that the sun would set by 7 pm, so that it would be dark already when we arrived on the South Rim. On the way in, we did see these elk right next to the road.

Saturday night, we checked in at the historic Bright Angel Lodge and stayed in hotel rooms in the Thunderbird Lodge. Enjoyed a great dinner in the Arizona Room: steaks, Canyon Lemonade with vodka and prickly pear juice, etc. I could tell that I wasn’t the only one who was nervous about setting out the next day. But the night sky was beautiful, filled with stars, the desert air was clear and bracing, and I couldn’t wait to wake up the next morning to my first view of the Grand Canyon.

Grand Canyon: Day 2 Sun Aug 29

And what a view this was! Just what you’d expect and hope for, I think. But like everyone says, photos don’t really capture the feeling of being there on the rim! Can you imagine waking up and looking out your window and seeing this? It was really exciting and, fortunately, we had until 1 pm to explore the South Rim area.

We shopped and bought souvenirs at the Lookout, Kolb Studio, El Tovar hotel, and Hopi House, because we didn’t think we’d have time after climbing out a week from now. Looked through telescopes to see the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim and down at the trails we’ll be walking. INTIMIDATING!! Repacked so I had everything I needed for the 7 days and 6 nights in my backpack and left my suitcase in the van with souvenirs, a bath towel for a shower when I hike out, and clothes for the plane home. We parked our van at the trailhead of the Bright Angel Trail, right by the Kolb Studio, so we could see where we plan to hike up and out one week from today.

Decided to take before and after photos: this is BEFORE we set off in the van to the North Rim to begin hiking. We’re on the South Rim here, in front of the hotel where we stayed last night.

This is one of the AFTER photos, just as we arrived back at the top of the South Rim.

When we got to the campground on the North Rim, after a 5 hour van trip around the canyon, it was really cold out: 40 degrees with 40 mph winds. The warmest things I had with me were one long-sleeved shirt and long pants, no sleeping bag; just a foam mat, a sheet and a pillowcase. I worried that I would freeze, as I was already cold and it wasn't even dark yet.

Kristin had a couple purposes in planning for us to camp on the North Rim this first night. One was to make sure we had everything we needed before descending into the Canyon. If we didn't there was a store at this campground. So I bought a fleece; yay! Another was to give Patti a real camping experience, so we had a campfire and roasted hot dogs, S'mores etc. No fires allowed below the rim; only little camp stoves that could heat up water. And no soap.

I didn't know this campground employed a "host family" for the summer but I sure was glad they did, as our hosts came by during the campfire and loaned us some warm sleeping bags for the night. So between that and my winter golf gloves, I stayed warm as the wind howled outside our tent and I got used to sleeping on the ground and slept pretty well until the 5 am wakeup call.

Grand Canyon: Day 3 Mon Aug 30

Here we are at the trailhead of the North Kaibab Trail on the North Rim at 6 am, as we begin our descent into the Canyon. Got up at 5, packed up my backpack and got ready to hike down. I think it took us over an hour this first day to strike the tents, choke down a Clif bar for breakfast etc. We got a lot better and faster at it as the trip wore on.

I was trying to keep my pack to 20 pounds and I think it ended up about 25 lbs. Laura was a trooper; she carried our tent and one of the camp stoves and now tells me her pack was about 40 lbs and Kristin's had to be 50. The trail was really rocky and steep, so I was glad for my hiking poles. In fact, a couple people fell that first morning and we were told we'd probably all fall down eventually and advised to fall on our backpacks to cushion the impact. The beauty was just breathtaking though. Vividly colored flowers (Indian Paintbrush?) that looked like tropical fish pushing their way through the rocks. Pines clinging to cliff walls like that famous one at Pebble Beach. Every turn and switchback presented a new view. And I was grateful for the 35 mph wind as the sun rose higher and it got hotter.

Taking off our packs for breaks, drinking water and eating snacks was good. Got surprised by the mules, as they were suddenly behind us and passing us without much warning. Now that I saw them, I realize that I COULD have done this on a mule, although the riders said their butts were sore.

Had a bit of a scare at the place where the mules watered and turned for the trek back up, as I managed to lock myself into the bathroom and was scared I couldn't get out and started screaming for help. Finally threw the bolt on the door and got out! No harm, no foul.

Is it too much information to share that I never had to use my Charmin To Go or my trowel to dig a bunny hole? There were bathrooms and drinking water all along the trail. Saw my first century plant from afar and then got close up on it; awesome. We'd see things like this bridge or the ranger station with the helipad on top from way far away and then all of a sudden we'd be there.

But Kristin said this would be our hardest hiking day and that we might not make it to the campground by 11am and so would have to stop because of the heat of the day and then resume about 4 pm. Laura said the downward part of the hike bothered her knee the most; it didn't mine. In fact, in retrospect, this was one of my favorite hiking days because I had a lot more trouble (aerobically) on the uphill hike.

One regret I have now is not taking the 2 mile side hike to Roaring Springs when we passed it. Big, beautiful waterfall that supplies water for the whole canyon area. But I didn't know how much farther we had to go to make it to the camp site and was conserving my strength and energy.

Made it to the Ranger Station where there were big cottonwood trees and coyote willows and a big picnic ground next to the trail where I took off my backpack, rollout out my sleeping mat and proceeded to take a well-deserved nap.

It felt great to take off my hiking boots and socks and put on my campground sandals. I have to hand it to Benchmark Outfitters: for a novice tenderfoot like me, I never had a blister or sore feet the entire trip! Tore through my backpack and scarfed down a bunch of Triscuits and cheese and pre-cooked bacon and peanut butter and dried peaches for lunch. The wind was still blowing like crazy and we were glad because it was hot. When we set off on the trail again at 4 pm, we figured we had another 2 hours of walking to get to our campground.

This was our camp site the first night out, at Cottonwood Campground, halfway down to the bottom from the North Rim. We could hear clear, beautiful Bright Angel Creek rushing over the rocks not far from our tents. Laura checked it out and showed me the way to get down there and wash clothes, face etc. in it but I couldn't stay in for even 60 seconds it was so cold!

Grand Canyon: Day 4 Tues Aug 31

Grand Canyon: Day 5 Wed Sep 1

Left Cottonwood Campground in the dark at 5 am with our headlamps on to get through "The Box" to Phantom Ranch, Bright Angel Campground, and the bottom of the Canyon before it gets too hot.

I had heard stories about The Box and, as a result, was a little worried about hiking through it but in retrospect, this was one of my easiest hiking days and some of the most beautiful scenery as we walked along clear, rushing Bright Angel Creek.

Still, I was happy and relieved to get to Phantom and the campground. Of course, ravenous and ready to eat lunch and then sit in the creek all afternoon cooling off.

More about this day later ... stay tuned.

Grand Canyon: Day 6 Thurs Sept 2

Our second day at Phantom Ranch with a chance to hike down and explore the Colorado River and the beginnings of the hike up we'll attempt tomorrow.

More about this later ... stay tuned.

Grand Canyon: Day 7, Fri Sept 3

Today we started from the bottom of the Canyon and made it halfway up the south side to Indian Garden campground. Yes, hiking up is a lot more challenging for me than walking down from the North Rim. Woke up at 4:30 am and crossed the silver suspension bridge over the Colorado River in the moonlight with our headlamps on. Made it to Indian Garden campground, halfway up the South Rim by lunchtime.

Walking out the Tonto Trail to Plateau Point after dinner to see the sunset was the first time I thought the surroundings looked like what I'd expected of the inner canyon. More photos and more to write about this later ... stay tuned.

Grand Canyon: Day 8, Sat Sep 4

Our second day in Indian Garden campground, in a site overlooking the Bright Angel Trail where we see the mule trains and hikers coming up and down all day.

Mule deer obviously used to humans and not afraid of us, as they feed on Arizona grapes in the campground. Will write more about this day later ... stay tuned.

Grand Canyon: Day 9, Sun Sep 5

Grand Canyon: I made it!

Grand Canyon: We made it out!
Seven days, six nights ago, I descended into the Grand Canyon from the North Rim. On Sunday, it took me almost 7 hours to climb up the last four miles of the Bright Angel Trail and hike out. Yes, I made it, Rim to Rim. Unbelieveable! And it was so worth the effort.
Can't write more now, as work beckons during this short Labor Day week, but I will begin writing about our trip here, giving a day by day account. So check back, those of you who are interested.